No one had any kind of idea what to expect of a arrangement for human being to accomplish in Rachel, Nevada, to watch for themselves if the government was hiding aliens

In the center of the Nevadan desert, exterior a secretive US army airstrip, I discovered the world’s strangest society media convention.

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Dozens that young, good-looking, regularly costumed world were running roughly filming each other with semi-professional video clip rigs. They were YouTube and also Instagram stars – or, more often, aspiring stars – below to “storm” Area 51 for the benefit of their followers and complimentary the aliens held captive within. Or at the very least film us talking around it.

Joining them to be a ragged army of thousands of stoners, UFO buffs, punk bands, rubberneckers, european tourists, civilization with method too much time on their hands, and meme-lords in Pepe the Frog costumes – every here due to the fact that of the Internet, the ironic and also the earnest alike, for a party in ~ the end of the earth.

Three month earlier, top top 20 June 2019, the podcaster Joe Rogan released an interview with Bob Lazar. Lazar is a cult figure in UFO circles; he claims to have actually studied flying saucers at Area 51, the classified air force base in Nevada where the US government is rumored – by some – come make an enig contact with extraterrestrial beings.

Rogan’s numerous listeners heard the interview.


A Joshua tree in the desert. Photograph: J Oliver Conroy/The GuardianOne the those listeners to be Matty Roberts, a college student, anime enthusiast and video clip gamer in Bakersfield, California. Motivated by the Rogan podcast, Roberts produced a joke facebook event: “Storm Area 51, They can’t Stop all of Us.” follow to the plan, human being would meet in Rachel, Nevada – the closest town to Area 51 – in the early on morning that 20 September, then swarm the defenses and also see because that themselves if the federal government was hiding aliens.

Things snowballed. Within hours, the page had actually thousands the RSVPs. Within days the had much more than a million. The air pressure warned that points would finish badly for anyone attempting a raid. The FBI paid the hapless Matty Roberts a residence call.

So he come up through a excellent pivot: why not channel this momentum right into a burn Man-style music festival in the desert? the joined pressures with Connie West, the operator the Rachel’s single inn and restaurant, to arrangement what they called Alienstock.

Then came the first schism. Scornful that the net interlopers, the extraterrestrial Research center in nearby Hiko, Nevada, decided to hold its own Area 51 event the very same weekend – for major ufologists.

Roberts and West pressed on. Yet the town of Rachel (population: 54) short the infrastructure to take care of thousands that conspiracy theorists and also gawkers diminish on rural Nevada. The local authorities feared potential calamity: civilization dying that dehydration in the desert, angry landowners, madmen v guns.

Things snowballed. In ~ hours, the page had actually thousands the RSVPs. Within days it had more than a million.On 10 September, ripe days prior to the event, Roberts donate out. He wanted no involvement in a “Fyre Fest 2.0”, that told the media. The accused West of gift insufficiently prepared for the coming flood. Budweiser readily available to sponsor a free, alternative Alienstock occasion in a “safe, clean” meet in downtown las Vegas. Roberts urged civilization to walk there instead.

West refused to publication the concert in the desert. She’d currently sunk countless dollars the her own money right into the event, she called reporters as she held ago tears. Alienstock would happen, she said, even if it is anyone chosen it or not.

Now over there were 3 rival events all happening on the exact same weekend – one in las Vegas, an additional in Rachel and also a third in Hiko. No one had any kind of idea exactly how many world were coming.

I come equipped with a duffel bag that Hawaiian shirts and also a situation of vape cartridges, which ns hoped to use as money in the occasion of civilizational collapse in the desert.

But the desert would certainly wait. The “Area 51 Celebration” in downtown ras Vegas did not acquire off to a promising start. Once I arrived, soon after 7pm, the outdoor to meet – greatly bedecked v glowing neon alien signage – was mainly empty except for cops and also local newscasters. A DJ blasted dubstep come a bare dancefloor. The venue even had a swimming pool, bathed in eco-friendly light and watched by a bored-looking lifeguard.


Matty Roberts. Photograph: J Oliver Conroy/The GuardianI feared it might be a long night. I ordered a whiskey-and-water; the bartender fill a plastic stadion cup to the brim.

Then civilization started trickling in. Anyone was wearing their ideal alien-themed rave attire: one mrs wore a shiny, and also discomfitingly rubbery, head-to-toe alien costume. An additional had a Rick-and-Morty-patterned dress. Three men tore increase the dancefloor in matching alien-motif onesies. Someone lugged a sign that said eco-friendly LIVES MATTER.

I talked to two world who’d thrust six hrs from Tucson, Arizona, ~ above a whim to attend. One to be wearing a flat Earth society T-shirt, despite he claimed it to be ironic.

I spied Matty Roberts in the facility of a swirling mass of people, holding court. He was wearing a Slayer hat and black T-shirt; his long, dark hair flowed majestically down his back. That looked like a heavy metal-listening, hill Dew-drinking samurai lord, surrounding by courtiers and also supplicants. I combated my means over.

He remained in high spirits. “I’m absolutely amazed at just how things turned out, and also it’s incredible,” that told me together he signed autographs. I opened my mouth to ask a follow-up question but he was swallowed increase again by the crowd.

By around 9pm, there were a couple hundred civilization jerking spasmodically to dubstep.

A woman who presented herself together Shereel (“C-H-E-R-Y-L”) said she was happy to be in ~ the rave yet disappointed she couldn’t do the occasion in the desert.

“This is the an initial time since Roswell that human being like us space all comes together,” she said. “Even if nothing happens, we tried.”

The DJ interrupted his collection to give thanks to Matty Roberts and give a “special shout-out” come Bob Lazar. The crowd cheered.

A warmth wind was whipping with the arena. Together the wind buffeted us and also the rave lights flickered overhead, you could practically believe a UFO yes, really was about to descend.


The extraterrestrial statue outside the Alien research Center, Hiko. Photograph: J Oliver Conroy/The GuardianThe next morning I acquired in my rental car and headed north.

The outskirts of las Vegas – casinos, strip clubs, endless billboards for an individual injury lawyers – dropped away rapidly. Now there was just desert in every direction, stunning in that is vastness and also austere beauty. Mountains towered end the highway, surrounded by hilly plains of cacti and also scrub.

Soon most person settlement to be gone. There to be nothing alongside the highway – no strip malls, no fast food joints, and, i noticed, worryingly few gas stations. I had at the very least two hrs of steering ahead, though ns knew ns was walking in the appropriate direction: every automobile I observed was a police car, an RV or a news satellite van.

As i drove ns listened to rightwing talk radio, then peak 40, then country, then a scriptures discussion call-in show, then part Spanish-language stations, then static. A talk terminal interviewed the mother of a police officer killed by an undocumented immigrant. Sean Hannity made fun of the climate strike, and also every talkshow debated the new York Times’ recent, partly retracted accusation versus Brett Kavanaugh. The was, castle pointed out, yet another sign of predisposition in the free media.

Soon most human settlement was gone. Over there wasn’t also anything alongside the highway.The very first gas terminal was bustling with world buying water and also jerry cans of gas. In the parking lot of there to be a camper van marked “AREA 51 – right here WE COME”.

Finally, two hrs north of las Vegas, I experienced the exit for State path 375 – likewise known, due to the fact that its official renaming in 1996, together Extraterrestrial Highway.

The US government owns thousands of square mile of floor in northern Nevada. The area is huge enough, and also empty enough, come detonate a atom bomb – i m sorry the government has, on thousands of occasions.

The “Groom Lake airfield” – Area 51 – is part of a massive complex of armed forces installations. Their tasks are classified and also the skies above are limited air space. Small is known around what walk on there, though the air force tests experimental stealth aircraft, which may account for part UFO sightings.

Of course, military pilots are themselves recognized to report seeing what they refer to as “unexplained aerial phenomena”. (Even the new York Times has reported on it.)

In the 2000s, Congress established an “advanced aviation threat identification program” to research the problem. The routine wasn’t classified, yet it “operated with the expertise of an extremely limited number of officials”, according to Politico. The then Nevada senator bother Reid helped secure the funding.

That’s the end of the background lesson. The leader is complimentary to investigate further and come to their very own conclusions.

On the way to Rachel, I stopped at the rival festival in ~ the extraterrestrial Research center in Hiko. The was heavy on souvenir sellers, though over there were part hardcore ufologists. A group referred to as the shared UFO Network (Mufon) gave me a pamphlet offering certification to be a “field investigator”.


Signs and concertina wire at the Area 51 checkpoint. Photograph: J Oliver Conroy/The GuardianIf anything, the ufologists were much more the exception than the rule. I had actually expected many Area 51 Stormers to it is in conspiracy theorists, 4chan types, or world on the fringe political spectrum, yet a lot – probably most – to be normies top top a lark, or foreigners trying to find peak Americana.

Two young males – one Swiss German, the various other Japanese – told me they to be friends who’d met at an English together a second language regime in new York. A group of Britons told me they’d been taking a road trip up the west coast, heard around the Area 51 business, and also decided to take a detour.

This was a common theme: “Well, I’d been thinking around taking a road expedition anyway, sooo…

When my automobile turned the last switchback right into the valley toward Area 51, the vehicle radio, theretofore static, suddenly started blasting Smetana’s Má Vlast in eerie, crystal-perfect sound. The aliens, the seemed, were timeless music buffs.

Rachel came into view – a tiny, one-horse city besieged by cars and tents and camper vans. Consisting of the cops, EMTs, festival organizers, and so on, there looked to be a couple thousand world – not the two million who had actually RSVP’d to the on facebook event, nor the 30,000 the sheriff feared, but much more than I assumed would follow through.

Contrary come the wild warnings around a Fyre festival 2.0, things appeared mostly under control. Festival marshals waved me follow me to an assigned lot.

My neighbors at the parking lot-slash-campsite were a punk band called Foreign Life Form. They weren’t part of the planned music lineup, one Life type explained together he ate chief Boyardee room-temperature indigenous a can, however when castle heard about Alienstock, the seemed prefer fate. They to be trying to find the concert organizer come get included to the billing. To aid seal the deal they’d painted your faces and also arms green.


A member that the punk band international Life Form, human body painted green, eat a can of cook Boyardee at his campsite. Photograph: J Oliver Conroy/The GuardianMy various other neighbor, an erudite, joint-smoking background podcaster from Oregon, wore a T-shirt that stated “Take me to her dealer”. He and also his son had actually had the shirt custom-made; the Life creates were disappointed they couldn’t buy some.

Getting come the actual entrance to Area 51 took an additional 20 minute of control on one unmarked, unpaved road. Clouds of chalk billowed behind the dare coming and going.

At the end of the roadway was a drab military checkpoint flanked through concertina wire and also threatening signs. The authorize prohibiting photography was clearly a dead letter.

Rotating shifts of regulation enforcement policemans of every range – sheriff’s deputies, state troopers, game wardens, park ranger – preserved a watchful eye ~ above everything. They seemed relaxed, though, and looked choose they were having actually as great a time together the ostensible Stormers. After all, this to be an excuse for them come hang out at Area 51, too.

(To mine knowledge, no one actually raided Area 51, as well as the two Dutch YouTubers who had tried come sneak with the perimeter 2 weeks earlier and ended up in jail instead.)

In enhancement to YouTube vloggers and Instagram influencers, over there were much more than a few actual journalists. Watching castle scurry about diligently through tape recorders reminded me the I required to find a Quirky character who could give On-Scene Color. A talkative UFO buff would be ideal yet the various other journalists had already claimed many of the great ones.

I couldn’t protect against noticing a pair of men in huge, papier-mache Pepe the Frog heads. The vloggers love them, and the Pepes appreciated mugging because that the cameras. “My God,” a girl said, “they’re adorable.”

Under their frog heads, the Pepes were 2 young Latino guys from California. Once I asked them what they assumed of the frog’s association with the alt-right, one appeared confused. The various other nodded in recognition but claimed he simply thought the symbol was fun.

He said, “It’s all around the –”

“Memes,” perfect the other. Lock both laughed.

Two Pepe the Frog enthusiasts. They said they were unaware of its alt-right association. Photograph: J Oliver Conroy/The GuardianI asked if it no weird because that them, as Latinos, to adopt a price affiliated through white nationalists.

“Yeah, ns mean, lock a little, like, extreme for me sometimes,” one said. “But sometimes you feel like they’re right around some stuff.”

I said, “Like what?”

“Like clown world.”


“Clown world.”


“Like the idea that we’re all living in a people of clowns,” he clarified.

Tendrils of fog hung end Alienstock. The temperature was dropping fast and also the sunlight was low and pink in the sky. The sunset to be sublime but I had actually a long drive to mine motel ahead and also a sick emotion that ns should have actually left half an hour ago.

I bade farewell to the history podcaster. That reminded me the the area was open up grazing land. “Watch the end for the steer,” he said. “They go right out right into the road.”

The following morning I questioned whether to squeeze in an additional trip the end to Alienstock and couldn’t quite uncover the willpower. It was time to get ago to civilization, i decided. Or at least Las Vegas.

I stopped at the gas station in Alamo, near Rachel. The town felt hungover, and also it still had a day to go. Most of the locals appeared unsure quite how to feel about the whole thing. It was a boon to the local economy, yes, but likewise a financial catastrophe for the county government. There were rumors that the ar attorney to be planning to sue Connie West, or Matty Roberts, or also Facebook.

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Most, though, simply seemed excited at the idea the their corner of the people might end up being something bigger 보다 a gas stop on the way elsewhere.